Kept.

The new view.

Newcastle, England – The train doors open with a shiver of damp, grey chill.

Somehow, 12 degrees here is far cooler than the eight we enjoyed under the Arctic sun.

Rain caught up to us as we climbed the steep, smoothed stairs of the city’s namesake new castle, which was nearly demolished in the 1840s to make way for trains. Instead, the tracks carved through the walls, between the Black Gate and the keep. I’m glad they kept it.

Despite the monochrome day, views from the top were well worth the ascent.

But, we need to warm up.

Stepping into Grainger Market is like entering a time capsule. When it opened in 1835, it was the largest covered market in Europe.

Cut to the chase.

It’s still home to the world’s smallest Marks and Spencer's – the last remaining Penny Bazaar – whose burgundy and gold storefront has been painstakingly maintained since the store opened in 1895. Many of the newer shops share a similar aesthetic, sporting hand-painted lettering over curved glass.

A wok sizzles. We're greeted by shifting aromas of curry, flowers, shaving cream and fish. Vintage clothing shops take you back....all the way to the 1990s.

The market is a simple joy to walk through.

Its warmth is about far more than temperature.