Monday, December 18, 2017

Leave a Tender Moment Alone.

The tiny sliver of Honduras we saw.
Roátan, Honduras – Roátan’s green hills lie just beyond our reach.

Instead, we’re stuck in the ship’s atrium, watching the bulbous characters of Wii bowling awkwardly swing their arms on the big screen. Christmas decorations and tropical renditions of carols – Auld Lang Syne on xylophone, anyone? – stand out against the morning heat.

The swells are wreaking havoc with the lifeboats that are to serve as our tenders because another ship beat us to port. Safety trumps all, as it should. And, we're on vacation.

Now we wait, having stood in line for 90 minutes for a pass to disembark today.

We still ended up with only the fourth boat.

We have nothing booked, so it’s not a big deal for us, although we had talked about taking a taxi to Bananarama Dive & Beach Resort to snorkel the barrier reef. Time is too short at this point.

Oh well, the deck attendant keeps coming by to take drink orders.

Sunday, December 17, 2017

A Ray of Sunshine.

Hey, I'm Ray.
Georgetown, Cayman Islands – Waves rise, unique like the snowflakes falling back home.

Just like these moments, they shift and are gone, never to be repeated.

We had to tender to shore this morning, but only received a pass for the eighth boat – we should have lined up earlier. Snorkels in hand, we talked our way onto an earlier tender as we didn’t want to miss the one excursion we had booked.

Especially to Stingray City.

Pulling toward shore in Grand Cayman, it is easy to get lost in the sea of jewelry before us: bands of jade and turquoise spread as far as the eye can see as depths of the crystal waters vary.

Something fishy going on; where are my friends?
Beneath the waves, a neon disco comes to life as the brightest-coloured fish dance past. Dark ones with thin blue stripes down their backs appear as if under black light as I climb down into the brain coral and sea fans. Swirls of orange, yellow and purple pirouette past my mask, which serves as a window into a new world. This is my kind of party.

A large leopard-spotted grouper tucks itself away into a crack, too large to conceal itself completely.

A massive female stingray glides past at the sandbar, gracefully displacing the water around her –  such a ballerina of the seas. More arrive, sploshing themselves onto my hip as I offer squid. Eventually, more than 25 of them flop against us like rubbery wetsuits, their long stingers trailing harmlessly behind. After a kiss and a rub, they slide back to the shimmering sea floor.

I always wrestle with the ethics of experiences like these, which alter the animals’ habits and habitats. But it was a blast.

And I’m reminded of how much I love the sea: silence and beauty.

Saturday, December 16, 2017

Mayan Ruins.

"I'm searching for the lesser-known Mexican Buddha."
Costa Maya, Mexico – The sea air, brined in salinity, lightens. The tickle of a breeze offers a whisper against the heat.

Our first port is the purpose-built town of Costa Maya. Build it, and the cruise ships will come, apparently.

It doesn’t mean they should.

The port itself is a theme park of manufactured culture and Chinese trinkets that try to nod to history and to tourist dollars alike: shelves are filled with Mayan masks and sugar skulls.

All are emblazoned with American sports team logos.

It’s almost as though this is the only way we could possibly appreciate another culture. In the distance rests what appears to be a Mayan temple. Water slides protrude from all angles like octopus arms.

Meanwhile, three ships of bleached and beached tourists converge upon the pool at the village's centre, tall plastic palm trees of alcohol in hand. Bars are set all around.

It’s just like being on the ship.

Friday, December 15, 2017

Engulfed.

Making waves.
Gulf of Mexico – The sea rolls by like a reel.

Fishermen, too.

The wind winds in waves as we wake in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico, the sun rising in the colour of flamingo wings. It’s warmer, but gusty.

Hypnotic waves follow the churn behind the ship, dissolving into turquoise set against an endless horizon of blue. I keep waiting for dolphins.

And, I'm left thinking of the snow-crowned conifers from one of the absolute best days of my life, 16 years ago today: happy birthday to my favourite young lady. This day's weather is quite a contrast.

Pulling forward, clouds become tinted by our chimney stacks, leaving them yellowed like nicotine-stained teeth. It’s hard not to think of the environmental price of my relaxation.

As waves scatter like static, the beauty in isolation, however, is astounding: we are but a ripple in a giant blotter of blue.

Thursday, December 14, 2017

Afloat.

Works for me.
New Orleans, LA – Night oozes over the Mississippi like an oil spill, the shore twinkling like a string of Mardi Gras beads.

With it, a chill, despite only being 5 p.m.

Our ship was 90 minutes late leaving port due to traffic on the river, but we’re finally underway. Naturally, we arrived painfully early to climb aboard.

At least we have a glass of sparkling wine.

Morning in New Orleans was about decisions: The Ruby Slipper Café is known for its eggs Benedict, prepared several ways. The Peacemaker came to the rescue: one biscuit covered in Applewood smoked pork, another in fried chicken. And, naturally, buttery Hollandaise sauce, which is usually something of which I’m not a fan. So smooth, and so rich.

New Orleans is about eating, isn’t it?

“Laissez les bons temps rouler” goes the local expression – roller bags clacking over the broken pavement, we do just that.

Ships ahoy.

Wednesday, December 13, 2017

Hola, NOLA.

Dancing in the streets.
New Orleans, LA – “Braaap!”

We’re greeted by blasts of brass horn and a storm of powdered sugar as we arrive in the French Quarter.

It turns out visiting the famous Café du Monde offers a far different whiteout from what we experienced during yesterday’s drive. Tables and chairs are slicked by remnants of confectioners’ sugar peaked onto still-warm beignets and subsequently caught on the breeze.

Fattened crows, pecking at the ground of the outdoor café, are thrilled.

Stepping into the elegant Omni Royal Orleans is like stepping into history, as is anywhere in the French Quarter, where ornate iron railings and wrap-around balconies frame art galleries and bars – lots of bars. These days, it seems some of this history has been perverted by neon and cheap Chinese trinkets, but beauty lies behind the troubling evidence of rampant addiction and homelessness.

On cue(s), a man staggers by as if he has wooden legs. It's still early.

But, N’awlins is known for its soul, expressed through food, art and music.

VooDoo like to come in?
Brass bands fill the squares, kept in tune by the rat-a-tat-tat of snares, as we tuck into the back of the Erin Rose and into a one-table room with the trappings of many years of bartending: an old Miller High Life sign rests in a retired brick fireplace. Something tells me it’s not the only thing lit in here.

But the grilled shrimp po’ boy sold under the flag of Killer Po’ Boys – logo: skull and crossed baguettes – is tremendous.

Later, neon catches fire as we wander down Bourbon Street, and into the famed Carousel Bar, which installed an operational merry-go-round in 1949. At least I can blame the rotating bar seats for my world spinning.

The stars, meanwhile, have been replaced by the twinkle of tiny white Christmas lights wound through the trees and over the balconies. One is festooned with "Peace, Y'all."

In the distance, a trumpet sounds mournfully.

Tuesday, December 12, 2017

Monochrome.

White-knuckle driving.
Romulus, MI – Wolf eyes flash red on the bone-bleached horizon as winds curl in crystals over the vacant fields.

Winter has struck.

With better lighting, I’d imagine the air hanging over the highway would make a dazzling chandelier. Instead, the speed limit sign reads like the bottom line of an optometrist’s visit.

Still, shivering branches reach through the ghosts, beckoning us toward our vacation. The sun, however, is but a button, muted, as I whistle along to St. Vincent.

Starting tomorrow, some colour.