Off the Wall.

Monopolizing Big Apple references

Asheville, NC – The entrance to Asheville’s Wall Street is wedged open by a flatiron building built in the Beaux Arts style in 1927.

A large, black statue of an iron stands firmly on the sidewalk like an oversized Monopoly piece.
 
It’s obvious the city doesn’t take itself too seriously.

The street itself is named less for the American financial mecca than for the – you guessed it – wall that lines it, keeping the infill in place. The former back alley is now home to several quirky shops – including one devoted to vintage belt buckles – and trendy restaurants.

It seems to be indicative of the city's South Slope District, which, like many gentrifying areas, clings to the past and brings with it the arts, culinary experimentation, modern culture and a more progressive attitude. 

Not to mention rising prices.

They called him Wilt.

Ghost signs trace brick buildings like faded Yellow Pages, harkening back to a time where this was the city's automotive centre. Now, strings of Edison bulbs and clay-potted plants sway over cozy patios ringed by original iron fences.

Large graffiti murals stand in bright contrast to old buildings of an eclectic mix of architectural styles.

Former garages host artisan treats like Vortex Donuts, art galleries and a glassblowing studio I lose myself to for an hour. The city is also home to the most craft breweries per capita in America, including top-rated Burial Beer Co., where we happily shiver under the patio's space heaters for big IPAs and even-bigger stouts containing adventurously unique ingredients.  

Every restaurant seems to feature a James Beard-nominated chef. 

Asheville reminds me of bit of Austin or of Deep Ellum in Dallas: progressive enclaves in states known to be stuck very much in the past –  ghost signs in and of themselves.

We hadn't planned to say, but are glad we did.