Adios, Peru.

London, Ontario – After nine days, six flights, two trains and more than 12,000 kilometres over two continents, Team Esperanza has completed its service learning activities in Urubamba, Peru – three months later than anticipated.

It was the team’s second attempt, following February’s foiled foray that left us stymied at the border because of four inches of snow in Atlanta. If we hadn’t made it, we wouldn’t have had the tremendous opportunity to partner with two great organizations: Nexos Voluntarios and Villa Marcello school.

John wouldn’t have consumed 26 Inca Kolas, nor would Ellie and Cassandra F. have thrown back 10 litres of peach nectar – even posing with two boxes of it atop Waynapicchu’s 2,600-metre summit. Carling’s sunburned skin wouldn’t have thirsted for 250 millilitres of aloe vera cream and Sam wouldn’t have polished off one whole bottle of shoe shine on her dust-covered sneakers. Instead, Anisha and Alison – who proudly wore one sweatshirt every day of the trip – ended up doing two loads of laundry in a stream. (The shirt, however, did not take the plunge.)

At NeVo House, Joanna prepared 100 brown bag lunches and Yoel once got away with using his ‘special defence’ as Jared hung him upside down. At Villa Marcello, Vivek and Mike finally celebrated a 2-1 victory in the daily lunchtime schoolyard futbol game – after three days trying. Then, basking in their glory, they realized they had beat a team of eight-year-olds. The school’s grade six class also put on one traditional Andean play, much to the delight of the Canadian visitors. Meanwhile, Nina led games of ‘pato, pato, ganzo’ (‘duck, duck, goose’), to many giggles.

The team completed the school’s second floor over four days, passing and lifting thousands of buckets of sand, gravel and cement for the one and only, Maestro. At one point, Doris caught a record seven buckets at a time; by the end, however, only three survived intact. During reflection, the team spent one night of stargazing in Maras, 3,200-metres above sea level. The experience left 20 mouths agape in wonder at the 360-degree panorama of mountains and countless tiny jewelled beacons in the sky.  

Esperanza’s members took roughly 10,000 pictures – led by Shannon, sporting two cameras, slung like six-shooters at her side. The blank pages of Jessie’s journal were also soon tattooed by more than 14 pages of memories – by the second day. At Machu Picchu, the team counted 13 llamas, including two babies. Of the team’s 20 members, 16 reached Waynapicchu’s summit at 2,634 metres above sea level in one hour, enduring thousands of steep, narrow Incan stairs, a dark cave and lungs and muscles that screamed endlessly. Zero bananas survived the trek, covering our bags and three sandwiches per person with sticky goo.

Cassandra C. led the charge in singing 12 consecutive Disney songs on the bus, which was designed to accommodate 18, but held 21. At the time, 16 were asleep and uneager to hear songs of any type. Two flimsy green plastic stools introduced to the van to get people off the floor fell apart in mere moments. Seven weight jokes were immediately directed at Douglas, under whom the plastic legs quivered. Looking for alternatives, four Esperanzites spent four Soles for one tiny moto-taxi – you do math.

Welcome to Peru: on the last day in Urubamba, several faces contorted in horror upon being presented with cuy – paws still attached. After six squeals from Jared, everyone knew just how cold a local shower could be; the whole week, there were only three warm showers total. And there were no clean clothes left. There were unlimited smiles shared and several colourful traditional blankets, bags and Inca Kola t-shirts purchased. Kelly’s potato chips expired in 1996 and there were zero times there was enough sleep. There were, however, many more friends and countless memories made.

With 20 hours of layovers, the team spent time playing five different card games, including euchre, which Deanna was just learning. There was also one impromptu game of hide-and-seek in Atlanta, and another in Lima where the team spent 56 minutes looking for Sunitha, who had asked nine people for help after passing the team, and the security checkpoint. None spoke English. Always in demand, Larissa was the team’s one member fluent in Spanish.  

Last roll call through letters A-T: “Start us off, Kelly.” 20 outstanding people and one phenomenal team: Esperanza, (Alternative) Alternative Spring Break 2010.

No Words.

Detour to Cusco.

Cusco, Peru – Last night, hemmed in by the serrated tips of mountains that surrounded us, tiny white lights danced in the blackness overhead.

The Milky Way seared a bright scar across the sky. In Maras, we had climbed to 3,200 metres above sea level for our nightly reflection session – but under the stars, away from ambient light.

Sporadically, comets arced across the tableau as many of the team layed on the on their backs, reflecting on the enormity of our world, and our universe. Unfortunately, the altitude took a grip on Jared and we needed to bring him into Cusco for medical attention.

In the middle of the night, the streets in the countryside were predominantly silent, except for large packs of dogs that would follow in the wake of our taillights. Bouncing down steep stone streets, I was impressed by the city’s massive churches and impressive plazas. Even in the darkness. The streets here, too, were quiet. And after a night’s rest, it’s hoped that what ailed Jared is too.

A Turn for the Worse.

Urubamba, Peru – What had otherwise been a great day suddenly took a turn for the worse for me this afternoon – literally.

Playing an impromptu game of futbol, I rolled my ankle, which left me writhing in pain as blood seeped from my hands and knees. Suddenly, the ‘glory’ of an earlier goal became insignificant as I wondered how I could continue to help the team on its last day of construction tomorrow, and hike Machu Picchu the next.

The morning began wonderfully, with the students performing a dress rehearsal of a historical play that teaches about poverty and terrorism in Peru. It was a pretty special experience, not to mention cute; however, watching nine-year-olds wearing yellow masks fall to the ground shaking their legs as though they were being shot was mildly disturbing – despite the historical accuracy.

All in all, it was an inspiring way to begin the day: after watching them, how could you not want to work on their school? And work we did, carrying more than 1,500 pounds of cement in 100-pound bags across the lawn and up to the roof. At 2,800 metres above sea level, it is easy to become winded.

Carrying, mixing and pouring left us covered in dust, which trailed us like puffs of smoke everytime we moved. Grey globs of dried cement clung to our legs. But, we finished one of the classroom floors and felt a tremendous accomplishment at what we had achieved in a few short days. One more day to go for Team Esperanza to leave its mark.

At the end of the day, we handed out donations we had brought for the students and walked many of them home, ambling hand-in-hand as we scattered throughout the village. Dogs and bulls pushed by, and citizens watched with curiosity. Common themes emerged from a number of these experiences, including the hospitality and graciousness of the children’s families, their desire to point out local plants and animals, and to ask questions about us.

Naturally, linguistic differences presented a few challenges, but the act of being together spoke more words than any of us could. Eagerly gathering back at Villa Marcelo as the sun set over the hills, we absorbed the warmth of another day full of experience.

Breakfast in Urubamba.

Urubamba, Peru – The sun seems to rise earlier here at the equator.

Wandering into the dining room at Nevo House, I am greeted by sunshine that gleams over the mountains, spilling onto the white walls and blue baseboards, warming the patterned tile floor below.

 Looking out the short, narrow wooden doors toward the courtyard, idyllic pyramids of rock, brushed green, rise from the horizon in every direction. Three laminate-surfaced tables rest at the centre of the room, framed by wooden chairs, spaced around all sides to (tightly) accommodate the 20 members of our team. On the walls hang posters of popular destinations in Peru, a smattering of maps and correspondence and pictures from those who have formally lived and worked here.

At the centre of each table rests a plate with discs of bread, jam, margarine, a thermos of hot water for tea and a bowl of hard-boiled eggs. Spanish radio chirps from the kitchen and my nose dances to the aroma of lunch wafting out with the tune. Lost in the beauty of my surroundings as the sun kisses my skin, I am suddenly rousted from my reverie by an eye, peering around the corner.

Clutching a slice tomato in one hand, year-old Danery, daughter of one of them women who works here, looks shyly, blinks and unleashes the largest smile possible, saying “dada.”

My morning is complete, and it has yet to begin.

Counting on Success.

Urubamba, Peru – With Alison leading the count of “Uno, dos, treis…cuarenta y cuatro, cuarenta y cinco…ciento cincuenta y dos,” the numbers rose, as did buckets filled with rocks.

Throughout the day, several hundred more loads of water, cement mix or clay bricks were passed, fireman style, along a line and up to the roof of the Villa Marcello school, where Team Esperanza has begun construction on a second storey – under the watchful eyes of Salbatore and the Maestro.

At various points, you may have found John or Doris swinging a pickaxe, or Larissa and Cassandra F. using a heavy iron mallet to drive a spike into the roof. In the process, they were roughing up the concrete enough to ensure the new cement floor will stick better.

Or, you may have encountered the long line of buckets being passed between Nina, Ellie, Anisha, Sam and Cassandra C., to Douglas, standing atop a school desk, and up to Jessie and Vivek, perched over the edge of the school’s roof. Sunitha created a sport for those returning the empty buckets, setting up a tire as a basketball net.

Looking down toward the school's tarmac soccer field, you may have found Jared, Mike and Deanna, perfecting the mix of cement and sand, their shovels glinting in the bright sunlight. Baking on the roof, Kelly smoothed out the mortar holding the new bricks in place.

During recess, children from all grades flooded into the courtyard and Carling and Shannon quickly recruited them into games of Frisbee, futbol and duck-duck-goose. Canadians and Peruvians alike lit up, fun activities superseding linguistic challenges. A smile is a smile anywhere.

And these smiles melted our hearts.

Younger children played games in a circle and posed for pictures holding their hands in the shape of a Western ‘W’, while girls in skirts vigorously bumped a volleyball and a spontaneous game of ASB vs. all-comers erupted on the soccer pitch. Weaving around us with ease and passing balls through our legs toward an awaiting header by a teammate, they beat us to nearly every ball – despite wearing burgundy wool sweaters and slacks in the 30-degree heat.

The whole while, the verdant mountains loomed majestically around us. It’s really no wonder Peruvians have so long tied nature to the gods. In reflection, 'Optimistic' and 'Excited' were key words describing the outlook for tomorrow. After today's complete team effort that was both tremendously fun and rewarding, it's easy to see why.

Down to the Task at Hand.

Urubamba, Peru – Building on the day’s earlier theme of the sensory smorgasbord we have been presented with, we were greeted at the city market by vegetables of all colours, and spices of all scents.

The colourful blankets people wear blended right in.

A number of team members had wandered into the community after settling in to our three homes for the coming week. What better way to learn about a culture?

We later revisited the area on a guided tour that provided us with a more comprehensive overview of Urubamba. In the process, we also visited the merchant market, a couple of churches, the plaza and some Incan ruins. While it was nice – and no doubt helpful – to see the community in which we are going to be working, the team has been particularly vocal today about its excitement for becoming engaged with our service learning partner tomorrow.

And that, of course, is the whole point of being here, isn't it?

Coming to Senses on the Road to Urubamba.

Urubamba, Peru – Having flown from Lima early this morning, we drove by bus through the mountains to Urubamba, which provided everyone with an opportunity to absorb everything that surrounded us.

And there was much to absorb: from the smells of eucalyptus and diesel to the panache of colourfully dressed women sporting a variety of top hats, bowlers and cowboy hats – set atop long black braids that hung down their backs, tied together at the waist. From stray dogs loping through refuse piled in the gutter and dodging rocks thrown by an impatient man, to the persistent buzz of three-wheeled motorcycle taxis, there was so much to see, to smell, to feel.

Some absorbed the multi-coloured patchwork fields nestled into valleys punctuated by the jagged teeth of the glacier-tipped Andes. (Tufts of cloud appeared to nest atop many of the peaks like whipped cream.) Others were struck by the roughly constructed clay homes topped off by steel sheeting, or by mechanics trying to repair a rusted-out truck resting on the edge of a precipice.

Passing through stunning vista after stunning vista as we rounded hairpin turns with our luggage strapped to the roof of the bus, there was never any question of our surroundings attracting rapt attention – especially given that this was many team members' first experience in the developing world. Though dulled, all senses remained on alert – even with bleary eyes from the extent of travel and lack of sleep we have experienced over the past two days.

Yes, it really is that incredible here.

Lima Tender Moment Alone.

Lima, Peru – Tucked into niches between suitcases cobbled together like Incan ruins, several members of Team Esperanza lie under purloined airplane blankets, using the layover to catch up on sleep after a long day of travel.

Though we have not yet seen any of it, we have arrived in Peru. At 5 a.m., we again take to the air, flying to Cusco before making our way to Urubamba by bus.

Jared has draped his Canadian flag proudly at the entrance of our temporary Mustang commune on the second floor of Lima’s airport. Our distinctive purple Esperanza t-shirts are attracting curious looks from passersby. Shannon’s Western bandana provides a handy covering for some shut-eye. Perhaps best prepared of all, Carling lays cocooned inside a sleeping bag.

Other team members poke at mysterious tropical fruit left for us in goodie bags by Nexos Voluntarios – the NGO with whom we will be working. Quaffing their first Inca Kola, still more convert dollars into soles. Others read, write or type. All the while, Enya is piped over the speakers in a continuous loop. Oh, Oronoco Flow.

Add all of this to the spontaneous games of hide-and-seek and cards that broke out in the terminal in Atlanta and you have an industrious team that can find ways to fill the time during our many layovers.

But we’re here. And grateful to be.

Esperanza (Reprise).

Atlanta, GA – As we pulled out of Elgin Hall at 5:41 this morning, the sky maintained a murky darkness; unlike our first attempt in February, however, the forecast was not overshadowed by snow in every state.

Instead, rain drew Etch-a-Sketch patterns on the bus windows as the team settled, contorted in sleep. So much silence, despite the excitement.

Border guards at Windsor grilled us, asking, “What’s the point of doing this?” Wisely, we resisted the urge to offer detailed explanations of the value of service learning. By not turning back at the border, we had made it farther than our first foray, and felt a bit of satisfaction.

Anisha, Alison, Carling, Cassandra C., Cassandra F., Deanna, Doris, Douglas, Ellie, Jared, Jessie, John, Kelly, Larissa, Mike, Nina, Saman, Shannon, Sunitha, Vivek: Team Esperanza (II). And a special hello to Jenny, Gillian and Fabio, who were unable to participate in the rescheduled experience, but remain Esperanzites in our hearts.

Upon boarding the Atlanta-bound plane in Detroit, the captain’s voice sparked over the loudspeaker, saying: “I noticed a number of service personnel, veterans and a large contingent of humanitarian-bound students on board, and I wanted to take a moment to acknowledge and thank you for your service.”

Throughout the plane, people clapped. And several of us got chills.

Peru, here we come