East Eats.

A cut above.

Singapore — In our quest to eat our way through the country, we began the day by taking the four-kilometre walk to the iconic Old Airport Road Food Centre.

Except, we didn’t.

Not initially, anyway. We found a smaller one upon turning the corner, believing it to be our destination. It was Old Airport Road, after all.

Just not 51 Old Airport Road.

It's no wonder the first location was so quiet, in relative terms. Perhaps we were just a little keen. The opportunity to explore Singapore's hawker culture —plate-by-plate — has been my primary reason for visiting, and I've been keen to compare it to my food experiences in Malaysia.

After a little more walking (and a small meal, naturally), however, we find what we're looking for. Built in 1972, and boasting more than 150 vendors, Old Airport Road was recently named Singapore’s best hawker centre.

Lineups for each of its two Michelin Bib Gourmand-awarded (meals under $32) stalls snake between tables and halfway around the building. People are patient and orderly. And yet, there's a non-stop chaos of talk, soup slurping, order calls, bowl stacking and wok clanging.

Colourful chopsticks dance into dishes.

Worth the wait.

I tuck into the line for Lao Fu Zi Fried Kway Teow, which has occupied a spot in the building since 1973. I've ordered the black version, which includes sweet, dark soy sauce. Each stall has its specialty, and kway teow, done two ways, is theirs.

Tan Lee Seng dances with the heat, scooping bits of broth and other ingredients into the large sizzling wok with the flourish of an artist. He makes every order individually.

At $5, it's considered expensive for hawker food, but it's worth it.

Garlic, chillies, Chinese sausage. I’m greeted by little bursts of the sea as clams explode in my mouth, alongside shrimp, crunchy dried fish and two kinds of noodle. Despite vendors’ constant questions about our ability to handle heat, it’s only mildly spicy.

Clean-up crews sort and wash dishes, before returning them to the appropriate vendor for yet another round. Got to keep the lines moving. I love hawker culture.

Sitting for a craft beer with a couple locals, we find we’re lucky: as of Monday, the centre will be closed for five days for a deep cleaning.

My tastebuds are grateful.